I've been stuck in Malin village for four days, watching Atlantic storms batter the coast. But this morning, I woke to stillness. The window was here.
The Waiting Game
Sea kayaking is a waiting game. You can't fight the ocean - you can only work with it. Those four days tested my patience, but they also gave me time to plan every detail of this paddle around Ireland's most northerly point.
Hell's Hole
First challenge: Hell's Hole. It's a chasm where the Atlantic surges into the cliffs with terrifying force. Even in calm conditions, the water churns and swells unpredictably. I gave it wide berth, heart pounding as I watched the white water explode against the rocks.
The Northernmost Point
At 11:47am, I rounded the actual northernmost point of Ireland. A small lighthouse marks the spot. I stopped paddling for a moment, floating in the current, and just... absorbed it. North of me: nothing but ocean until Iceland.
Basking Sharks
The afternoon brought an incredible surprise. Three basking sharks - the second-largest fish in the world - were feeding just offshore. Their massive fins cut through the water as they filtered plankton. I paddled slowly among them, absolutely awestruck.
Wild Camp
Camped tonight on a tiny beach that I spotted from the water. No road access, no footpath - completely private. Cooked dinner watching the sun set over Inishtrahull island. Tomorrow I turn south down the west coast.
I've paddled around the top of Ireland.