This was the day I'd been both anticipating and dreading since I started planning this expedition. The Cliffs of Moher - 700 feet of vertical rock rising straight from the Atlantic. Today, I would paddle at their base.
Dawn Departure
Left Lahinch at first light. The forecast was perfect - calm seas, light winds from the east. These conditions don't come often on this coast, and I had to take the chance.
Approaching the Cliffs
Nothing prepares you for the scale of these cliffs when you're at water level. Most tourists see them from above, looking down. From a kayak, you look UP - up and up and up until your neck aches. The rock face stretched to my left for miles.
Sea Cave Discovery
Found a series of sea caves that aren't visible from land. Paddled into one that went back about 30 meters - the sound of my paddle echoing off the walls, water dripping from the ceiling, slivers of light cutting through cracks above.
The Puffin Stack
O'Brien's Tower was a tiny dot on the cliff top above me. Around the corner, I found a stack absolutely covered with puffins. They launched themselves past my kayak, their wings whirring, fish dangling from their colorful beaks.
Doolin and Trad Music
Made landfall at Doolin by 3pm. This village is the heart of Irish traditional music, and I decided to stay an extra night. Had a pint at Gus O'Connor's pub, listening to a fiddle session while my muscles recovered.
Best. Day. Yet.